Knowing the method of construction of a pair of dress shoes is the answer to differentiate good footwear from Premium quality. Further than the level of exquisiteness of the materials selected for its manufacture or the place where it was manufactured, it is the techniques used in its production that will not only establish its price, but also its useful life.
It is a technique based on the double stitching that is achieved due the invention of Charles Goodyear Jr., a sewing machine patented in 1871 and that allowed to assemble very quickly the different parts of the shoe is made up replacing the monotonous manual procedures that prevailed in an industry that underwent a real revolution.
It is shown below why the Goodyear Welted is considered one of the methods of footwear construction of the world for excellence, a traditional process that is synonymous with genuine craft shoes.
Double Stitching
The Goodyear method is defined by its extraordinary efficiency when linking the different parts of the shoe. A first sewing joins the body of the shoe to the welt, a strip of great solidity that acts as reinforcement for the footwear, while a second external stitching fixes the sole to this piece. This gives superior strength.
Hidden Seams
The fact of not having visible seams gives a greater durability, so only a rigorous use of the sole could cause that they begin to deteriorate. On the other hand this procedure allows the sole replacement is possible if necessary after many years of use.
Cork Filling
A bed of resinated cork is placed between the insole and the outsole, which executes two functions. On the one hand, the agglomerate acts as a thermal insulator, and on the other hand it guarantees a great adaptability because after the first use your footprint will be written on it, increasing the levels of comfort.
J.R. Outsole
It is made from natural leather, which is held in olive oil for three months so it acquires a great flexibility. In addition, being tanned with oak tannins has a scratch resistance superior to the rest. It is not by accident that the outsole J.R. is considered to be the best in the world.
Outsole Heel
Composed by superposed layers made up of the best leather; the heel of Goodyear shoes not only has great strength and great resistance to friction, but also gives a great stability to the footprint. It is reinforced with multiple nails that provide greater firmness.
Inner Lining
Inside the shoe is placed a thin cover of calfskin so soft and flexible that it gives a very comfortable fit. The vegetable tanning does not come with the mineral pigments that usually cover the pores, that is why the leather facilitates perspiration, providing a incessant sensation of freshness.
Padded Insole
The foot rests on a foam sheet patented by Crownhill Shoes that adapts to its morphology and achieving a very pleasant footprint. Its function is to avoid the direct contact with those hardened parts of the sole that give it its consistency.
Full Leather Insole
Due it is all over the entire base of the shoe, its purpose is to avoid to the foot not rest directly on the midsole. In this way, our soles have two more layers than any ordinary Goodyear shoe.
Leather Midsole
It is 4 mm thick and forms the lower part of the insole. Being genuine leather is much more solid and durable, but also flexible to ensure the natural fold of the shoe.
Shanks
Goodyear shoes have two shanks installed, a leather one and metal one. These sets are, located between the heel and the forefoot; they are stabilizing elements that cause the footwear to flex properly giving a homogeneous footprint.
Nails
The four nails of the tip allow securing the most sensitive part of the shoe against a daily use. By preventing the seams from being opened, the durability of the footwear is significantly increased.
Invisible Eyelets
Preventing the laces to do not damage the throat of the shoe after many months of tying and untying, the metal eyelets have been placed inside of the closure that despite not being visible, they help to preserve the leather.
Stitch at the buttom of the throat
Its function is to reinforce the two ears of the shoe minimizing the risk that the leather may become detached after some time. It is just a characteristic feature of Oxford shoes, whose throat is V-shaped.
Finish
The process of making Goodyear Welt footwear would not be possible without the skills of the best professionals, those who have dedicated their entire lives to the perfection of this art and whose attention to detail makes possible an impeccable finish in the decoration of the shoe, in every seam, cutting or brogue placed in order to embellish the different models of a collection designed to satisfy the tastes and needs of customers.